I’ve printed ABS for years, and have an approach that works well for me. The hype of this printer was that it works great out of the box; I didn’t need another science experiment. I’ve never had much luck with ABS on powder coated steel. I was going to try some different bed materials, but that is no longer an option.
If something worked for years, copy that.
What did you use for bed surface before?
Print setting shouldn’t change much, fan off and maintain bed temp.
Keep the heat in the printer.
They sent me a fix this morning that recovered the machine. I just tried my go to for ABS. Glue stick on glass. Unfortunately the prox sensor doesn’t detect the glass, so that didn’t work.
Black marker on where the prox check?
Paper?
Can it measure without glass. Add offset and don’t check again on every print?
After several more days with this printer, it has serious issues. The biggest being that the Z offset is merely a suggestion. I thought that would be improved by heat soaking the chamber for an hour before using the machine, and by running the ABL at the start of the print. I don’t know if they helped or not. If they did, it wasn’t enough. From print to print the Z offset would vary by as much as 0.4mm. I could still produce usable prints if I steed at the printer while it did the bed leveling routine, and then tweak the z offset while it is printing the skirt.
The ABL also has issues. I tried to print with the bed full of parts. At the front of the bed the nozzle could barely extrude because the bed was so close. At the rear the filament wouldn’t stick because it was too far away.
I finally gave up when I discovered a print that started ok later failed and caused the machine to damage itself.
Wow my Prusa Clone keep bed way better.
I can leave it off for weeks and starting printing again without leveling bed.
My old M3D need bed level before every print. It’ll still be wrong.
There is a rumor on the internet that they’ve stopped selling this machine due to the number of problems.
Today after ask about my order i get answer:
“Because some users reported that there are some problems with X-Plus 3, we decided to stop selling this machine. At present, there is no specific notification of the re-launch and delivery time.”
Currently it’s unavailable on all regions.
Their web site claims a full refund within 30 days without any reason. So far they’ve offered to send me a bunch of replacement parts and a $300 rebate, but are balking at refunding the machine.
I left a negative review on their web site, but it appears they only post the 5 star glowing reviews.
Regardless of what comes of this printer, I’ve learned everything I need to know about Qidi as a company.
Final update: Qidi issued a full refund.
Bambu X1C is on order.
No PRUSA or Creality?
Ulitmaker?
Rugged Bambu P1P:
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/12hhz3n/rugged_p1p_hold_my_beer_work_in_progress/
Ultimaker S7!!! These are amazing machines…
The hype about the X1 carbon is well deserved. I set this printer up 3 1/2 days ago, and all it does is spit out parts. Despite the fact that the printer runs 3+ x faster, the print quality is better than anything I’ve seen in the past. I will probably be getting one of these for the house and retiring one of the CR-10s. (The only reason to keep one of those is for the larger build plate.)
IMG_1408.JPG
With the exception of the tray, all of those parts are 100% infill. I’ve printed PLA, PET-CF and ABS from bambu, as well as hatchbox ABS. Zero issues, just parts. for $1200, this thing is pretty incredible.
Sweet! I hate you 
SPerman If I can ask why are you printing at 100% infill?
Also how does a model like this print?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2656594/makes
Because these are production parts used in our machnes.
I have no idea. I don’t need to print anything that looks like that.
On the left is a stop for the crossbar. It uses a cam lever from a bicycle seat clamp to lock it in place.
In the middle is a handle for the clevis pin.
On the right is an IR temp sensor mount, that is spring loaded for quick and easy repositioning.
All of these are ABS printed at 100% infill.
image.png
I get that it’s for production parts but printing at 100% does have a diminishing return vs using DFAM techniques to create internal structures which will net an even stronger model than what any 100% infill will do. Definitely worth investigating especially considering the impact reduction in print time and material cost.
Also the reason why I asked about that part specifically is that it helps to qualify the machines overall capability. You’re the one here saying how good the machine is so even if you don’t print that model, what are the tolerances that the machine consistently makes when it comes to overall capability.