How do you work on 3DXP when that happens?
The executives telling us we need to be back in the office full time to build “synergy” and “comradery”, while slowly outsourcing more of the IT/Engineering jobs overseas. May have to post here before long: https://cadforum.net/viewforum.php?f=31
I plan to retire in five years. In about two years I plan to campaign heavily for them to get someone in here to take over when I leave.
Start now. It will likely take them a couple of tries to find your replacement. Will likely take a couple people as they will not be to your level of efficiency and will also go through a couple of candidates. Unless you want to work part time for a couple years after retirement. If they think they can just hire someone when you leave take a four week vacation and don’t look at email or answer phone.
All good points, but
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I think getting someone in three years before my planned retirement is about all management will go for, and I’m not sure they’ll go for that.
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Unless the policy changes, me working part time after retirement isn’t an option. It could change, and if it does I’m certainly open to it.
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While I of course don’t agree with everything they do, I have a good relationship with management, so I don’t want to take a long vacation just to see what would happen. I think they know anyway.
Is it better than a white text on a whitish background? 
image.png
(Note to self: this is our marketing/branding guideline)
In the 3d printer slicer software I’ve used for the last several years, CTRL-D is “Duplicate”.
In BambuLab, CTRL-D is “Delete”
Fortunately CTRL-Z works reliably.
Meanwhile in outlook, ctrl+F is forward instead of find…
line break in word is shift+enter
line break in excel is alt+enter…
ugh..
Out of topic… how is Bambulab printer?
We are planning to get a X1C as a “downgrade” replacement for our Stratasys uprint which is going to EoL soon..
I love it. I have one if not both of mine running almost daily. I would highly recommend one. I’ve retired the other two printers at work. If it ever reaches the point that this printer can’t keep up, I will buy a 2nd.
I didn’t think I would be as thrilled as I am with the AMS, but it means never having to worry about a print running out of filament, and being able to run spools all the way to the end. I’m going to try a print this weekend using support material and see how that goes.
I’ve made one major change, and that is to switch to a glass bed plate. Flexible bed plates are great, right up until they flex, and your part is shaped like a banana. I can get PLA and ABS to stick to glass, and I can get it to release with a quick trip to the freezer.
A while back I watched a video of a guy printing PLA directly on glass. I was having trouble getting it to stick to the glass without some type of glue or hairspray. In his video, he said to clean the glass with soap and water, then with distilled water. I was using rubbing alcohol, and apparently it leaves a residue. But once I did as he instructed I could get the PLA to stick to the glass, just wiping down with a cloth with distilled water between prints.
Just thought I’d pass that on as an option to explore.
Thank you for distilling that information!
I’ll be here all week.
I use hair spray for PLA and glue stick for ABS. I can print a PLA box the size of my CR10 print bed and it will be dead flat. I can’t say the same for ABS, but It’s given me the best results of anything I’ve tried. At least anything I’ve tried that is easily removable.
Is there some reason not to use glue or hairspay on glass?
No, just that hairspray gets everywhere. It’s also good if you’d like a smooth surface on the part at the bed/glass interface. If you are switching often, then you’re probably setup right.
I haven’t attempted to print ABS in years, mainly because I don’t have an enclosed printer anymore. But when I did, I used acetone and left over ABS slurry to adhere the prints. I never tried glue stick for ABS, but I’ve had good results with it for other materials.
Any reason not to use the glue stick for both PLA and ABS? That way you don’t have to clean off the glass when you switch between materials.
I think I’ve had better luck with hairspray and PLA, but I can’t say for sure. The hairspray doesn’t add significant texture to the bed, which gluestick can, especially after repeated applications.
I printed some PETG+ parts a long time ago, and had the most success with gluestick on blue tape. Parts of the blue tape had to be replaced after every print, because it was difficult to remove the part without damaging the tape. This was before all of the fancy new chemicals and surface materials.
The machine shop we use cannot tap 5mm threads in aluminum. I’ve tried to explain to the boss that machine shops all over the world manage to do it successfully every day. I’m currently modifying all parts with 5mm threaded holes to 6mm threaded holes. 
Is the translation “We don’t have a tap for 5mm threaded holes and don’t want to buy one, so closest we can do is 6mm.”?
Sounds like you need to use a different machine shop.
They’ve tried more than one brand of both roll taps and cutting taps. I think the z axis on that machine has too much slop, and they don’t want to use a tapping head, or take any other measures to compensate.
Unfortunately the relationship is complicated. They rent space in our building, and some of the other owners have had a relationship with him for over 10 years. In most aspects, this is a very symbiotic relationship with benefits for both of us. I just wish they would fix this issue instead of making excuses.
I just figured out it will be a minimum of 42 parts that have to be revised. Potentially 10 more if they want to go full throttle with the stupidity.