The voron will be my next build. I have not seen anything that moves as fast, even industrial printers.
I think most of this 3dprinters magic is in the klipper firmware, it uses a accelerometer to find the fastest movements without sacrificing quality.
https://youtu.be/OoWQUcFimX8
[quote=FMAAID post_id=8762 time=1624388944 user_id=294]
The voron will be my next build. I have not seen anything that moves as fast, even industrial printers.
I think most of this 3dprinters magic is in the klipper firmware, it uses a accelerometer to find the fastest movements without sacrificing quality.
https://youtu.be/OoWQUcFimX8
[/quote]
I’ll watch that when I get home. Problem is that you may end up paying twice for a “kit” then upgrading the components. Or, you’ve got to piece it together yourself and pay a bunch of different shippers.
I wouldn’t mind putting it together, that could actually be fun, but I’d want to order all the parts I want. Really, a 200 watt power supply to power the hot end and the 13x13 bed?..yeah, I don’t think so…But that’s what gets listed in the BOM and so, any company that puts a kit together lists the 200W meanwell supply.
Hey Frederick_Law,
I tried your profile, but it lost adhesion about 25% of the way done. I modified it a little bit before printing because as above I have a 0.8mm nozzle. But, I didn’t change much. The problem seems to be that the Benchy I downloaded has some writing on the bottom and the nozzle was picking up because of the Z-hop. So, it wasn’t sticking properly. The skirt stuck pretty well, so I’m pretty confident it’s the Z-hop.
So, I’m trying again with “combing” enabled. I was playing with that before with TPU and it’s a great option to prevent stringing, and may work well for printing this Benchy. Take a look at how it works if you haven’t. Seems like in most circumstances it would be a good setting. Print time in Cura went from 47 minutes to 42, when I enabled it…FWIW…
Only thing hard to get and expensive are linear rail and truck.
200W power supply? My computer has 500W.
anyone use 240v on the bed?
I have that on the printers at work and that eliminated a need for a high power supply.
I use a keenvo bed heating pad @ 240v with a solid state relay that gets 12v signal and turns on the 240v bed or off.
240V? DC? AC?
We can always use separate PS on heaters.
Amateur, I use 480V.
I meant 240v AC, but you know there is nothing stopping someone from running 240v DC
My mainboard runs on 24v DC
I got 110AC here 220AC is for the oven. Illegal to use extension cord.
And voltage doesn’t matter, P=VI. 200W is 200W different voltage, different current. Still need 200W.
The main benefit of using a 120v or 240v AC bed heater is to offload the current draw from the 12v DC power supply and speed up heating time.
My bed runs right out of the wall, no power supply needed just the relay.
Before it took forever to heat up a 300mm or 400mm bed on 12v, now it takes 5 minutes.
Got similar problem. Change the 20Ga “power” wire to 14Ga and its fixed. Current draw is 13A on 12V with everything power on.
Since we’re talking about Klipper:
https://all3dp.com/2/klipper-firmware-3d-printer/
Frederick_Law,
Are you running Klipper?
Not yet. Looks like a good upgrade.
I’m running Repetier.
Klipper is great 3D printer firmware but can be a bit tricky to set up. Read on to learn how to install Klipper on an Ender 3 V2!
https://all3dp.com/2/klipper-ender-3-v2/
Hey [mention]FMAAID[/mention],
Have you seen the kits on Formbot? For $1k shipped you get everything you need except the printed pieces. I’d just order those though, because my printer is in my house and I’m done with printing in ABS in the house…
<LINK_TEXT text=“https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voro … for-choice”>https://www.formbot3d.com/products/voron-24-corexy-3d-printer-kit-with-different-print-sizes-for-choice</LINK_TEXT>
Something else to consider…what do you think of this machine (HevORT)?
https://youtu.be/ibsBiALMMSE
That is a nice kit, even comes with the latest BTT octo board.
Here’s a live build:
<LINK_TEXT text=“https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P … khYRRoJeht”>https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnIDwhpx7VdRdkhYRRoJeht</LINK_TEXT>
It’s 24 hours, though.
Hey FMAAID and Frederick_Law,
What do you think of the Rat Rig? The Teaching Tech guy built one and has some videos on it I watched this weekend.
Here’s the configuration site:
https://www.ratrig.com/3d-printing-cnc/v-core3configurable.html
Looks good but expensive.
Linear rail are great and are the most expensive part.
I was planning to build similar printer.
XY fixed on top. Bed on Z moving down.
This way, less mass on XY so it can move fast.
I think the 3 linear on Z is way over kill.
3 ball screws on belt should be good enough.
Of course I’ll want multi-extruders.